Banner Elk scores high state fair marks
By Frank Ruggiero
ruggiero@wataugademocrat.com

For Banner Elk Winery, it was a good year and a good fair.

The local vineyard again distinguished itself at the N.C. State Fair, this time with four medals, three to wines made from grapes grown in Watauga County.

The Banner Elk White, High Country Rose, Seyval Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon each won a bronze medal. Last year, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon received top honors with the double gold award, the same prestige shared by Biltmore Estate Winery and Childress Vineyards.

Vintner and winery co-owner Dick Wolfe (also owner of Wolf Creek Vineyards in Abingdon, Va.) sees the medals as evidence that the young winery, open since June 2006, offers a viable product that others, up until recently, did not believe could grow in the High Country. Now, he can effectively tell those naysayers to put a cork in it.

“We’re putting $40,000 worth of grapes back into these mountains – this is another cash crop,” said Wolfe, who has introduced viticulture to area farmers, fancying himself as the “Johnny Appleseed of the mountains.”

Wolfe and co-owner Angelo Acceturro purchase the area grapes, creating a wine that’s indicative of this region – hardy, bold and pleasant. In the last year alone, the winery crushed 40 tons of grapes grown locally and in Virginia, grapes that many people thought could not grow at such altitudes and temperatures.

Wolfe knew otherwise, saying grapes flourish in regions of Italy and France with similar altitudes and climates, which can actually work to the winery’s advantage. He would simply use hybrids of grapes that would survive in those same regions.

Wolfe and wife Dede Walton traveled to France’s wine country to find out for themselves. “We noticed the climates were so similar, and the grapes there were at the same state ours were,” Wolfe said. “Our weather is very close to what they have in France, and going over there during the transitional time of spring really allowed us to observe, so I think we’re on to something here.”

When a late freeze settled on vines throughout the state earlier this year, a majority of grapes at lower elevations suffered, while Banner Elk’s cold-hardy varieties endured. Such grapes stay on the vine slightly longer, budding later than others.

An early freeze last October offered Wolfe the opportunity to produce an ice wine, an after-dinner wine made from grapes that have frozen on the vine. The grapes’ natural sugars do not freeze, while the water within does, creating a sweet wine to be served chilled and typically with dessert.

The winery did not receive recognition for its unique ice wine, since there was no category in the state fair competition for such a product. Wolfe’s variety is made of grapes from the Seyval Blanc harvest, and its limited quantities sell for $59.95 a bottle.

Apart from wine-tasting, those visiting Banner Elk Winery can stroll through rows of vines burdened with a veritable bounty of grapes. Like its wine, which has also reaped awards from the Blue Ridge Wine Festival and Kentucky Derby, the winery is rapidly growing in popularity, Walton said, adding that October’s Woolly Worm Festival brought between 400 and 500 people to the tasting room.

A typical weekend sees about 200 people pass through, she said, though some choose to stay at the winery’s bed and breakfast villa, which overlooks the vineyard and the blueberry farm, from which Wolfe concocts his award-winning blueberry wine.

The grounds have recently undergone an extensive renovation from the mind of Acceturro, who drew the plans on a napkin while enjoying a glass of wine on the tasting room’s patio. Guests can still cast a line into the stocked trout pond, but now they can practice their putts on a small green.

A small amphitheater has already hosted numerous concerts, including an exclusive performance by the classic rock band, Bad Company. Acceturro plans for further enhancements, including a wine cellar available not only for storage, but also for private parties. Another program would see customers purchase their own barrel, which will store their very own wine, produced just for them at the winery.

“So many people come through here, I thought we should make their experience better,” Acceturro said, “so they feel like they can spend some time here.”

An additional phase would see Banner Elk Winery establish its own distillery to offer unique varieties of brandy and cognac, Wolfe said, adding that the winery is already licensed by the state to do so and is now seeking federal licensing.

Though such developments are still on the horizon, Wolfe summed up his feelings of the winery’s success thus far in true vintner fashion, simply saying, “By definition, this was a good year.”

Banner Elk Winery is located at 60 Deer Run Lane (just off Gualtney Road) in Banner Elk. For more information, call (828) 898-9090 or visit www.bannerelkwinery.com on the Web.